Expo de la gravure japonaise

Exposition de la gravure japonaise du 25 avril au 22 mai… A l'Ecole des Beaux Arts… : [affiche] engraving [1890]
Author : Jules Chéret (1836-1932) Illustrateur | src BnF ~ Gallica
Exposition de la gravure japonaise du 25 avril au 22 mai… A l’Ecole des Beaux Arts… : [affiche] engraving [1890]
Author / Auteur : Jules Chéret (1836-1932) Illustrateur | src BnF ~ Gallica
Exposition de la gravure japonaise du 25 avril au 22 mai… A l'Ecole des Beaux Arts… : [affiche] engraving [1890]
Author : Jules Chéret (1836-1932) Illustrateur | src BnF ~ Gallica
Exposition de la gravure japonaise du 25 avril au 22 mai… A l’Ecole des Beaux Arts… : [affiche] [1890]
Author : Jules Chéret (1836-1932) Illustrateur | src BnF ~ Gallica

Perriand’s Léger inspired necklace

Detail of the image below. Note the silver choker, known as Collier roulement à billes chromées that Perriand wears.
Detail of the image below. Note the silver choker, known as Collier roulement à billes chromées that Perriand wears.
Charlotte Perriand in the Chaise longue basculante, B306 (1928, Le Corbusier, P. Jeanneret, C. Perriand) Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton Foundation, ph. by Pierre Jeanneret. | src Architectural Digest
Charlotte Perriand's ball-bearings necklace (Collier roulement à billes chromées - 1927)
Charlotte Perriand’s ball-bearings necklace (Collier roulement à billes chromées – 1927) | src Semantic Scholar
Charlotte Perriand (wearing her iconic choker) with Alfred Roth in Place Saint-Sulpice apartment-studio, Paris, 1928 
Courtesy: © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2021 / © AChP / src it art bag
Charlotte Perriand (wearing her iconic choker) with Alfred Roth in Place Saint-Sulpice apartment-studio, Paris, 1928
Courtesy: © ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2021 / © AChP / src it art bag

Charlotte Perriand’s ball-bearings necklace was exhibited in 2009 at the exhibition “Bijoux Art Deco et Avant Garde” at the Musee Des Arts Decoratifs in Paris and, in 2011, in the show “Charlotte Perriand 1903-99: From Photography to Interior Design” at the Petit Palais. The necklace became, for a short period, synonymous with Perriand and with her championing of the machine aesthetic in the late 1920s and has subsequently attained the status of a mythical object and symbol of the machine age. This essay considers the necklace as an object and symbol in the context of modernist aesthetics. It also discusses its role in the formation of Perriand’s identity in the late 1920s, when she was working with Le Corbusier, and aspects of gender and politics in the context of the wider modern movement. [more on Semantic Scholar]

Fernand Léger :: Still life, Le Mouvement à billes (1926). Gouache and ink on paper. Signed with initials and dated 26.

 “I had a street urchin’s haircut and wore a necklace I made out of cheap chromed copper balls. I called it my ball-bearings necklace, a symbol of my adherence to the twentieth-century machine age. I was proud that my jewelry didn’t rival that of the Queen of England.”

Perriand had asked an artisan with a workshop in the Faubourg Saint-Antoine to make the piece out of lightweight chrome steel balls strung together on a cord. The piece was inspired by Fernand Léger’s still life “Le Mouvement à billes” (1926).

The necklace became a symbol of Perriand’s passion for the mechanical age […] (see also: Charlotte Perriand’s “Ball Bearings” Necklace on Irenebrination)

Fernand Léger :: Étude pour “Le Movement à billes”
Signed with initials F.L. and dated 26 (lower right). Gouache and ink on paper. | src Sotheby’s

“Art is in everything,” insisted Charlotte Perriand. […] When you see Charlotte’s chaise longue, chair, and tables in front of that immense Léger, you cannot imagine the design without the art—it is a global vision.

On an adjacent wall, Collier roulement à billes chromées (1927)—a silver choker made from automotive ball bearings that Perriand not only designed but wore—is placed next to a Léger painting, Nature morte (Le mouvement à billes) (Still life [Movement of ball bearings], 1926). [quoted from William Middleton review of the exhibition Charlotte Perriand: Inventing a New World, on Gagosian]

Perriand on her chaise longue

interior design
Charlotte Perriand in the Chaise longue basculante, B306 (1928, Le Corbusier, P. Jeanneret, C. Perriand) Photo: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton Foundation, ph. by Pierre Jeanneret. | src Architectural Digest

She recalls how in 1927 at the age of just 24 she marched into the studio of Le Corbusier in Paris and showed the master architect her designs in order to present herself as an architect. He looked at everything and then said, “Mademoiselle, we don’t embroider cushions here.” [src indion]

Charlotte Perriand on her famous Chaise Longue Basculante, which she designed with Le Corbusier and Pierre Jeanneret, 1929. Charlotte Perriand. Inventing a New World (2019-2020) at Fondation Louis Vuitton | image src Klat magazine

The young woman bathed confidently in the sparkling energy of the “années vingt”, learned the Charleston, admired Josephine Baker, wore her hair cropped short and had a necklace made of chrome-plated balls, which she called her “ball bearings” – a provocation of industrial aesthetics. Modernism was gathering momentum. In her apartment, a car headlamp hung above her extending table made of materials used in automotive production. The direction was clear: we need to get away from the classical parlour. [src indion]

Perriand on the chaise longue basculante B306, which is included in the exhibition at FLV. Photograph courtesy of ADAGP. | src dezeen

Charlotte Perriand did not have to wait until her meeting with Le Corbusier to give vent to her creativity; it was long before then that she started to design pieces completely off her own bat. To be sure, the turning point came for her in 1927, when she read the Swiss architect’s two essays, Vers une architecture and L’art décoratif aujourd’hui, and had a revelation: “Those books made me see past the wall that was blocking my view of the future. So I took a decision: I was going to work with Le Corbusier.” But their first meeting was a disaster. She presented herself at no. 35 Rue de Sèvres, the studio that the Swiss architect and his cousin Pierre Jeanneret had set up in a long corridor that had formerly been the cloister of a Jesuit monastery (a building that was later demolished and replaced by a glass and concrete construction). She took out her drawings and when Le Corbusier asked her what she wanted, blurted out the only sentence she had prepared: “To work with you.” He looked her up and down through his round spectacles, glanced through the drawings and dismissed her with the words: “We don’t embroider cushions here.” Disheartened, Perriand turned on her heel, but not before telling Le Corbusier about her Bar sous le toit on show at the Salon. [quoted from Klat magazine]

Exposition Le Monde Nouveau de Charlotte Perriand at FLV (2020) | src UFVAB

These were not easy times for women: the world of architecture was peopled with extremely misogynous men. Charlotte felt herself to be a failure: she had not been able to get herself accepted. So it was a delightful surprise for her to find out, a few days later, that Le Corbusier had seen her furniture and was ready to let her join his studio to design the interiors of his new buildings. The mutual understanding between them in design would be so great that Charlotte Perriand’s name would be overshadowed and even erased by Le Corbusier’s, even though their collaboration would last for about ten years. [quoted from Klat magazine]

Parcours filmé de l’exposition Le monde nouveau de Charlotte Perriand | Retrouvez le parcours filmé de l’exposition ici: link to videos

Those were years of great complicity. The pair shared a passion for emptiness: “Vacuum is all potent because all containing,” as Taoism teaches us. But they would also be years filled with enthusiasms and jealousies, seeing that, after her divorce from Percy Kilner Scholefield, Charlotte discovered Moscow and Berlin, founded an association of artists and had a love affair with Le Corbusier’s cousin and partner Jeanneret, forming a fruitful and complicated relationship with him. Together they would embark on research into art brut, studying with Fernand Léger the shapes of pebbles on the beaches of Dieppe, the fractals of fossils and the trunks of trees. And together they would work until 1940. [quoted from Klat magazine]

Conception graphique et motion design du teaser de l’exposition « Le monde nouveau de Charlotte Perriand » présentée à la FLV. | src and link to video atelier bastien morin

In the summer of 1940 Charlotte Perriand left for Tokyo. Appointed, thanks to her friend, colleague and former intern Junzo Sakakura, an adviser on industrial design to the Japanese government; Perriand was supposed to stay in Japan for just a year and a half to prepare a major exhibition. She was to remain there for six years, as the war upset her plans, separating her from Jeanneret and leading her to finding a new love, Jacques Martin, who would become her second husband and the father of her daughter Pernette. From that time on, the life of this infinitely resourceful girl from the mountains, a skilled skier and off-piste enthusiast, but also a lover of the sea and fanatic swimmer, would be an unending series of encounters and discoveries in a continual process of renewal in order to try out new forms and unprecedented solutions. [quoted from Klat magazine]

Theatre magazine cover 1922

Theatre Magazine. Front cover, January 1922. Cover Design by Art Snyder. | src internet archive
Theatre Magazine. Front cover, January 1922. Cover design by Art Snyder. | src internet archive
Theatre Magazine. Front cover, January 1922. Cover Design by Art Snyder. | src internet archive
Theatre Magazine. Front cover, January 1922. Cover design by Art Snyder. [full scanned image] | src internet archive
Theatre Magazine. Front cover, January 1922. Cover Design by Art Snyder. | src internet archive
Theatre Magazine. Front cover, January 1922. [Detail] | src internet archive

Nijinsky and Karsavina

Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) :: Théatre de Monte-Carlo; Ballet Russe; [Nijinsky]. Lithograph in colours, 1911
Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) :: Théatre de Monte-Carlo; Ballet Russe; [Nijinsky]. Lithograph in colours, 1911
Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) :: Théatre de Monte-Carlo; Ballet Russe; [Nijinsky]. Lithograph in colours, 1911
Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) :: Théatre de Monte-Carlo; Ballet Russe; [Nijinsky]. Lithograph in colours, 1911, printed by Eugène Verneau & Henri Chachoin, Paris. | src Christie’s
Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) :: Théatre de Monte-Carlo; Ballet Russe; [Karsavina], 1911. Lithographic poster in colors on wove paper, printed by Eugène Verneau & Henri Chachoin, Paris. Severin Wunderman Family Museum | src Bonhams
Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) :: Théatre de Monte-Carlo; Ballet Russe; [Karsavina], 1911. Lithographic poster in colors on wove paper, printed by Eugène Verneau & Henri Chachoin, Paris. Severin Wunderman Family Museum | src Bonhams
Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) :: Théatre de Monte-Carlo; Ballet Russe; [Karsavina], 1911
Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) :: Théatre de Monte-Carlo; Ballet Russe; [Karsavina], 1911 [Detail]
Jean Cocteau (1889-1963)
THÉATRE DE MONTE-CARLO, BALLET RUSSE [Karsavina]
Lithograph in colours, 1911, printed by Eugène Verneau & Henri Chachoin, Paris | src Christie's
Jean Cocteau (1889-1963) :: Théatre de Monte-Carlo; Ballet Russe; [Karsavina]. Lithograph in colours, 1911, printed by Eugène Verneau & Henri Chachoin, Paris. | src Christie’s
d'après Jean Cocteau (1889-1963)
EXPOSITION BALLETS RUSSES DE DIAGHILEW
lithographic poster in colours, 1939, cond. A, backed on linen
Exposition: Ballets Russes de Diaghilew; d’après Jean Cocteau (1889-1963); lithographic poster in colours, 1939. | src Bonhams

Cramérbaletten costume design

costume design, dance costume
Kostymskiss till Husmodern. Häxan i Vindarnas Kulle, Cramérbaletten. Av Torkel Edenborg.
Costume sketch for Husmodern. The Witch in the Hill of the Winds, Cramér ballet. By Torkel Edenborg. | src Dansmuseet
Kostymskiss till Husmodern. Häxan i Vindarnas Kulle, Cramérbaletten. Av Torkel Edenborg.
Costume sketch for Husmodern. The Witch in the Hill of the Winds, Cramér ballet. By Torkel Edenborg. | src Dansmuseet
Korp. Mask till en av fyra korpar från uppsättningen "Domardansen". Av Torkel Edenborg.
Raven. Mask for one of the four ravens from the "Judge's Dance" set. | src Dansmuseet
Korp. Mask till en av fyra korpar från uppsättningen “Domardansen”. Av Torkel Edenborg.
Raven. Mask for one of four ravens from the “Judge’s Dance” set. | src Dansmuseet
Mask till "Drängen" från uppsättningen "Vindarnas kulle", Cramérbaletten. Av Torkel Edenborg. 
Farmer. Mask for "Drängen / Farmer" from the set "The Hill of the Winds", Cramér ballet. | src Dansmuseet
Mask till “Drängen” från uppsättningen “Vindarnas kulle”, Cramérbaletten. Av Torkel Edenborg.
Farmer. Mask for “Drängen / Farmer” from the set “The Hill of the Winds”, Cramér ballet. | src Dansmuseet
'Cramer Baletten, Svenska Riksteatern', a poster designed by Bjorn Wiimblad, 1980 (?). | src Sworders
‘Cramer Baletten, Svenska Riksteatern’, a poster designed by Bjorn Wiimblad, 1980 (?). | src Sworders
Korp. Mask till en av fyra korpar från uppsättningen "Domardansen". Av Torkel Edenborg.
Raven. Mask for one of the four ravens from the "Judge's Dance" set. | src Dansmuseet
Korp. Mask till en av fyra korpar från uppsättningen “Domardansen”. Av Torkel Edenborg.
Raven. Mask for one of the four ravens from the “Judge’s Dance” set. | src Dansmuseet

Erté · Scheherazade Suite

Romain de Tirtoff (Erté, 1892-1990) :: Scheherazade – La Nuit. Lithograph depicting a beauty in Middle Eastern garb. | src liveauctioneers
Romain de Tirtoff (Erté, 1892-1990) :: Scheherazade; La Favorite du Calife (Calyph’s Favourite), lithograph depicting a beauty in Middle Eastern garb. | src liveauctioneers
Romain de Tirtoff (Erté, 1892-1990) :: “Scheherazade – 8 “La Nuit Winter Garden NY”, 1924 (Gouache). | src liveauctioneers
Romain de Tirtoff (Erté, 1892-1990) :: “A Beauty of Bagdad”, from Scheherazade series (nº7). | src Kodner Auctions
Romain de Tirtoff (Erté, 1892-1990) :: “Scheherazade. Thousand and One Nights”, from the Scheherazade Suite. | src Ro Gallery
Romain de Tirtoff (Erté, 1892-1990) :: Harem Dancer (Calyph’s Concubine), from the Scheherazade Suite, ca. 1980. Lithograph. | src Doyle
Romain de Tirtoff (Erté, 1892-1990) :: Almee (Harem dancer), from the Scheherazade Suite, ca. 1980. | src Martin Lawrence Galleries
Romain de Tirtoff (Erté, 1892-1990) :: [Scheherazade suite: A Thousand and One Nights], [ca. 1979] | src Freeman’s
Romain de Tirtoff (Erté, 1892-1990) :: [Scheherazade suite:A Thousand and Second Night], [ca. 1979] | src Freeman’s

Danseurs orientaux par Erté

Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990) :: « Danseurs orientaux », vers 1912. Encre, aquarelle et rehauts d'or. (Ader) | src MAD ~ Musée des Arts Décoratifs
Romain de Tirtoff (1892-1990) :: « Danseurs orientaux », vers 1912. Encre, aquarelle et rehauts d’or. (Ader) | src MAD ~ Musée des Arts Décoratifs

Peter Pathé in Groteske, 1922

From : Walter Schnackenberg : Kostüme, Plakate und Dekorationen. Zweite Auflage. München, Musarion 1922. | src Ketterer Kunst
From : Walter Schnackenberg : Kostüme, Plakate und Dekorationen. Zweite Auflage. München, Musarion 1922. | src Ketterer Kunst
Greiner :: Peter Pathé in Groteske. From a book of Schnackenberg's works, published in Munich in 1922 by Musarion. | src Ketterer Kunst
Greiner :: Peter Pathé in Groteske. From a book of Schnackenberg’s works, published in Munich in 1922 by Musarion. | src Ketterer Kunst
Peter Pathé in Groteske. Photo by Greiner. Costume design: Walter Schnackenberg. | src L'Affichiste
Peter Pathé in Groteske. Photo by Greiner. Costume design: Walter Schnackenberg. | src L’Affichiste

Aranyfüst by Medgyes (1913)

art nouveau, jugendstil
Aranyfüst. Illustrations and book decoration by Ladislas Medgyes. Budapest, Ráth Mór, 1913. | src Jeschke van Vliet
Aranyfüst. Illustrations and book decoration by Ladislas Medgyes. Budapest, Ráth Mór, 1913. | src Jeschke van Vliet
Aranyfüst. Illustrations and book decoration by Ladislas Medgyes. Budapest, Ráth Mór, 1913. | src Jeschke van Vliet
Aranyfüst. Illustrationen sowie Buchschmuck von Ladislas Medgyes. Budapest, Ráth Mór, 1913. | src Jeschke van Vliet
Aranyfüst. Illustrations and book decoration by Ladislas Medgyes. Budapest, Ráth Mór, 1913. | src Jeschke van Vliet
Aranyfüst. Illustrations and book decoration by Ladislas Medgyes. Budapest, Ráth Mór, 1913. | src Jeschke van Vliet

One of the most beautiful Hungarian Art Nouveau books. It contains twenty short stories by Ladislas Medgyes, the Hungarian avant-garde graphic artist and stage designer. His first exhibitions were held in the gallery of the most important Hungarian avant-garde magazine “MA”, which also published his works in print. From the 1920s he lived in Paris, where he founded his school (École Medgyes pour la Technique du Théâtre) of stage design together with the Hungarian architect Erno Goldfinger. He worked as an interior designer all over Europe and in the USA. (quoted from Jeschke Van Vliet)