Underwood & Underwood ~ Olympic champion swimmer Martha Norelius in a dance pose, May 1925 | src worthpointReverse of the press photograph above, with credit stamps and snippet
Irene Castle pictured here with one of her pups in a 1915 photo by Underwood & Underwood | Cornell fashion coll. on IG
Ballroom dancer. Silent film star. Fashion designer. Animal rights advocate. Irene Castle wore many hats – and donned countless dazzling costumes – as a celebrity during the early twentieth century.
Irene Castle as Patria Channing in the serial Patria (1917). Only episodes 1 to 4, & 10 survive at the MoMA
Irene Castle was known for playing strong and stylish female leads such as the title character in the serial “Patria,” a swashbuckling, gun-toting munitions factory heiress who helps thwart a foreign invasion. Off-screen, Castle was also a pioneering entrepreneur who designed many of her own costumes and skillfully cultivated her image to become a household brand […]
“She was a very astute businesswoman,” Green said. “She knew the value of her name as a brand and so she branded all of her fashion innovations.” In 1917, Castle collaborated with Corticelli Silk Mills to develop “Patria”-themed fabrics, and started her own clothing line, Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions, in 1923. She also applied her moniker to everything from her “Castle Bob” haircut in 1913 that sparked a trend in the ’20s to the “Castle Band” of jewelry around her forehead that later resurfaced in hippie fashions of the ’60s, according to Green. / quoted from Cornell news
Silent film actress, dancer, and fashion icon Irene Castle, from the Irene Castle Photographs and Papers Coll. | src Cornell news
Nearly a mile straight down and only a step–from Glacier Point, Yosemite valley, ca. 1902 [detail]Nearly a mile straight down and only a step–from Glacier Point (N.W.) across valley to Yosemite Falls, Yosemite, Cal.,ca. 1902. Underwood & Underwood. Half stereo card.
Original title: Nearly a mile straight down and only a step–from Glacier Point (N.W.) across valley to Yosemite Falls, Yosemite, Cal. [Description: Woman standing on cliff overlooking deep valley.]. Underwood & Underwood, publishers, New York, ca. 1902. Digital file from original photo : photographic print on stereo card : stereograph. [scanned half stereo] | src Library of Congress
Underwood & Underwood :: Woman standing on cliff overlooking deep valley, 1900-1910B&W film copy negative from original stereo card | src Library of CongressView of woman standing on an overhanging rock at Glacier Point with Yosemite Falls seen in the distance. | src ALMA repository
Ruth Blair by Underwood & Underwood. Caption reads: The story that Ruth Blair’s mirror tells. Published in Motion Picture Classic, May 1916 issue. | src archive.org
Underwood & Underwood :: Waist-up publicity still of Valeska Suratt wearing a jeweled headdress, ca. 1916. A stamp on the back of the print reads: ‘William Fox presents Valeska Suratt in photo plays supreme released through Fox Film Corp. | src Wisconsin Historical Society
“Unfolding, as though giving or about to receive — an idea of petals opening to exchange the flower’s perfume for the warmth of the sun’s rays.” From ‘Dancing with Helen Moller’, 1918. Page 26. University of California Libraries. | src internet archive“A gentle and pleasantly expectant expression of aspiration — the lines of the entire body, arms, neck and head, having an upward tendency.” From ‘Dancing with Helen Moller’, 1918. Page 94. University of California Libraries. | src internet archive“An expression of pleasurable relaxation pervading the entire body— a complete reaction to influences that are pervasive in their sweetness and charm.” From ‘Dancing with Helen Moller’, 1918. Page 94. University of California Libraries. | src internet archive“The graceful management of draperies is an important requisite in Greek dancing. When the robe is voluminous, as in this instance, its manipulation demands considerable skill.” From ‘Dancing with Helen Moller’, 1918. Page 44. University of California Libraries. | src internet archive“Classic perfection of repose, with one limb bearing the body’s weight while the other, with the knee flexed, preserves balance, is one of the Greek dancer’s earliest achievements.” From ‘Dancing with Helen Moller’, 1918. Page 44. University of California Libraries. | src internet archive“Different individual reactions to the same sense of calamity -one erect as though petrified, the other crushed by despair; neither imitative, but each creative.” Helen Moller and Curtis Dunham :: From ‘Dancing with Helen Moller; her own statement of her philosophy and practice and teaching formed upon the classic Greek model, and adapted to meet the aesthetic and hygienic needs of to-day’, 1918. Page 40. University of California Libraries. | src internet archive
ACKNOWLEDGMENT: Many of the photographs reproduced in this book were taken by the author herself. For the privilege of reproducing other fine examples of the photographer’s art, she desires to express her grateful acknowledgments to Moody, to Maurice Goldberg, to Charles Albin and to Underwood and Underwood; also to Arnold Genthe for the plate on Page 36; and to Jeremiah Crowley for his admirable arrangement of the entire series of illustrative art plates. [quoted from source]
Related
Underwood & Underwood :: Publicity still of Valeska Suratt wearing a hat composed mostly of wires, ca. 1916. A stamp on the back of the print reads: “William Fox presents Valeska Suratt in photo plays supreme released through Fox Film Corporation”. /
Underwood & Underwood :: Russian ballet dancer Alice Nikitina as
La Chatte, 1928 in “La
Chatte” (The ‘She’ Cat), a ten-minute piece
with set and costumes by avant-garde artists Naum Gabo and Antoine
Pevsner. It was created in 1926-27 for Sergei Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes
and it starred Serge Lifar as the Young Man and Alicia Nikitina and
Olga Spessivtzeva in the title role. The music was written by Henri
Sauguet and choreographed by George Balanchine.
un regard oblique 