Birgit Akesson by Sune Sundahl

Sune Sundahl ~ Birgit Åkesson dances in a draping dress. Picture taken in studio. Architecture and Design Center Ark Des / ARKM.1988-111-02796
Sune Sundahl ~ Birgit Åkesson dansar i draperande klänning. Bilden tagen i studio. Arkitektur- och designcentrum Ark Des / ARKM.1988-111-02799
Sune Sundahl ~ Birgit Åkesson dances in a long draped dress. Picture taken in studio. Architecture and Design Center Ark Des / ARKM.1988-111-02795
Sune Sundahl ~ Birgit Åkesson dances in a draping dress. Picture taken in studio. Architecture and Design Center Ark Des / ARKM.1988-111-02800-A
Sune Sundahl ~ Birgit Åkesson dansar i draperande klänning. Bilden tagen i studio. Arkitektur- och designcentrum Ark Des / ARKM.1988-111-02800-B
Sune Sundahl ~ Birgit Åkesson dances in a draped dress. Picture taken in studio. Architecture and Design Center Ark Des / ARKM.1988-111-02801

All the images in this post are from the exhibition: «Dansen har mycket gemensamt med arkitektur» (2013). Some of the images are dated 1939-1947 but most of them undated.

«Dance has a lot in common with architecture» (2013)

Movement, rhythm, space and body in dance have much in common with architecture. Spatiality can only be experienced with the body, in movement. There are several good reasons to pay attention to the connections between the room shape and people’s movements in the rooms. Whether dancing or walking around a building, there is both flow and embodiment. Perhaps it was precisely these common denominators that made Birgit Åkesson choose the architectural photographer Sune Sundahl to document her early choreographies?

Photographing movement is a big challenge, a movement in a frozen moment can easily turn into a rigid pose without context or dynamism. In Sundahl’s collection there are, among other things, pictures from Birgit Åkesson’s own performance Blue Evening from 1946. The title was probably taken from the blue-painted Konserthuset in Stockholm, designed by Ivar Tengbom 1924-26. Here, Birgit Åkesson experimented with movements without music, which was unique for the time. She also studied during her lifetime the dances of other cultures, including dances African dances from the south of the Sahara and the Butoh dance from Japan.

The dancer, choreographer and dance researcher Birgit Åkesson (1908-2001) taught the viewer to listen to the sound of movement in the silence. It was about holding a dialogue, where the rhythm carried the form that left invisible traces in the air. Birgit Åkesson started her dance career in the 1920s and 30s when she studied with the German-born choreographer Mary Wigman. It was from her that the Swedish dancer found the expressionist language, the free dance. Birgit Åkesson was one of the leading avant-garde artists in free dance.

Lenita Gärde, Center for Architecture and Design (quoted from ArkDes)

Sune Sundahl ~ Birgit Åkesson dansar i draperande klänning. Bilden tagen i studio. Arkitektur- och designcentrum Ark Des / ARKM.1988-111-02804
Sune Sundahl ~ Birgit Åkesson dansar i draperande klänning. Bilden tagen i studio. Arkitektur- och designcentrum Ark Des / ARKM.1988-111-02805

Schenk dancer and draperies

Charles Schenk (American, active New York 1898-1905) ~ Schenk-Draperies, New York, United States; 1902; Collotype. | Getty Museum
Charles Schenk :: Dance studies, plate 12, circa 1910. Gelatin silver print from collotype negative. | src Freeman’s auction

Charles Schenk was active in New York from 1898 to 1905. He produced a series of motion studies of women dancing with drapery as well as a collection of multi-plate prints detailing women’s hands at work. His works are in the collections of the Getty Museum, MoMA and the Rijksmuseum.

Charles Schenk (American, active New York 1898-1905) ~ Schenk-Draperies, New York, United States; 1902; Collotype. Eight images of a woman dancing in a simple dress with a rope belt. Full plate. | Getty Museum
Charles Schenk (American, active New York 1898-1905) ~ Schenk-Draperies, New York, United States; 1902; Collotype.
Charles Schenk (American, active New York 1898-1905) ~ Schenk-Draperies, New York, United States; 1902; Collotype. | Getty Museum

Castle by de Meyer · 1919

Adolf de Meyer :: Irene Foote Castle, 1919. Photogravure. | src National Portrait Gallery [Detail]
Adolf de Meyer :: Irene Foote Castle, 1919. Photogravure. | src National Portrait Gallery, Smithsonian Institution

Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions

Ira Lawrence Hill :: Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions, 1910s | src Cornell University Library

Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions

When Irene Castle formalized her relationship with Corticelli Silk Mills in 1917, she was at the height of her fame: she had recently filmed the serial Patria (1917) and celebrated the success of The Whirl of Life (1915); her co-authored best selling book, Modern Dancing (1914); and the Broadway hit Watch Your Step (1914). Irene was an arbiter of fashion, outfitted almost exclusively by Lady Duff Gordon and was voted the first “Best Dressed Woman in America.”

As early as 1914, silk companies like Mallison and Corticelli began using film actresses to promote their products; however, Castle was the first film star to create a line of clothing. The line launched in tandem with the serial, Patria, and Satin Patria was the fabric promoted in the early dress designs. Initially Lady Duff Gordon was the ghost designer, but as the fashion line developed Irene took over the creative side and Corticelli advertisements emphasized her role as designer. In reality, Irene remembered in her memoirs, “I had an endorsement contract with the Corticelli Silk Company which required very little of me. I helped them design the clothes.” In the later advertisements, Corticelli claimed that the dresses were duplicates from Irene’s wardrobe. “The same delightful effect of quality which distinguishes the wraps and frocks of ‘America’s Best Dressed Woman’ is found in every ‘Irene Castle Exclusive Model,’ read a 1923 advertisement. Fall/Winter 1927 was the last season of Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions and the Corticelli Silk Mill would close soon after the start of the Great Depression. [quoted from Cornell University Library]

Ira Lawrence Hill :: Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions, 1910s | src Cornell University Library
Ira Lawrence Hill :: Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions, 1910s | src Cornell University Library
Ira Lawrence Hill :: Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions, 1910s | src Cornell University Library
Ira Lawrence Hill :: Irene Castle Corticelli Fashions, 1910s | src Cornell University Library
Ira Lawrence Hill :: Irene Castle. Corticelli Fashion photos, 1910s | src Cornell University Library

Desha by Nickolas Muray, 1922

Featured
Nickolas Muray (1892-1965) :: Desha Delteil, 1922. Toned gelatin silver print. | src Heritage Auctions
Nickolas Muray (1892-1965) :: Desha Delteil, 1922. Toned gelatin silver print. | src Heritage Auctions
Nickolas Muray (1892-1965) :: Desha Delteil, 1922. Toned gelatin silver print. | src Heritage Auctions
Nickolas Muray (1892-1965) :: Desha Delteil, 1922. Toned gelatin silver print. | src Heritage Auctions

Jako-Mica (Nicole Chaumot)

Teddy Piaz Studio :: Jacqueline Jako-Mica (Nicole Chaumot), dancer at Casino de Paris in the Troops of Carla Conté, ca. 1940s | src Abebooks
Teddy Piaz :: Jacqueline Jako-Mica (Nicole Chaumot), dancer at the Casino de Paris, ca. 1940s | src Zvab
Anonymous. Jako-Mica (Nicole Chaumot), ca. 1940s | src abebooks

Aerodanze 3 e 1, 1931

Giannina Censi in "Aerodanze 3: rovesciamento d'apparecchio" di [T. Santacroce. Milano?], [1931 ?]. Mart, Archivio del ’900, Fondo Censi. | src Mart, Museo di arte moderna e contemporanea di Trento e Rovereto on Google Arts
Giannina Censi in “Aerodanze 3: rovesciamento d’apparecchio” di [T. Santacroce. Milano?], [1931?]. Mart, Archivio del ’900, Fondo Censi. | src Mart, Museo di arte moderna e contemporanea di Trento e Rovereto on Google Arts
Giannina Censi. Aerodanze 1 [1931] src Mart - Fondo Giannina Censi
Giannina Censi. Aerodanze 1 [1931] src Mart – Fondo Giannina Censi

Aerodanze 1. Pubblicata in Bonfanti E., Il corpo intelligente. Torino: il segnalibro, 1995, p.25; Vaccarino E., (a cura di) Giannina Censi: danzare il futurismo. Milano: Electa; Museo di arte moderna e contemporanea di Trento e Rovereto, 1998, p.101; Vergine L., (a cura di) L’altra metà dell’avanguardia: 1910-1940: pittrici e scultrici nei movimenti delle avanguardie storiche. Milano: Mazzotta, 1980, p.128

Aerodanze 3. Pubblicata in Poggi Longostrevi G., Cultura fisica della donna ed estetica femminile. Milano: Hoepli, 1933, p.246; Vaccarino E., (a cura di) Giannina Censi: danzare il futurismo. Milano: Electa; Museo di arte moderna e contemporanea di Trento e Rovereto, 1998, p.107

Ein Sommernachtstraum, 1927

Nini und Carry Hess :: Ein Sommernachtstraum, Schlossfestspiele Heidelberg, 1927, Theaterwissenschaftliche Sammlung, Universität zu Köln. | A Midsummer Night’s Dream, Heidelberg Castle Festival, 1927, Theater Studies Collection, University of Cologne. | src Münchner Stadtbibliothek blog