the smokers · 1930s

Alexander Khlebnikov ~ Cigarette advertisement, 1931. Matte photographic paper, hand-printed. | src Museum of the Russian Photography
Georges-Louis Arlaud ~ La fumeuse, vers 1930 @ Paris photo fair 2023 | src galerie lumiere des roses on IG
La fumeuse, vers 1930 (photographe non identifié) @ Paris photo fair 2023 | src galerie lumiere des roses website
although the photographer is non identified on the gallery website the signature is clear on bottom right of the image
Advertising poster for cigarettes Gitanes Vizir, 1939. Photograph by Laure Albin-Guillot. | Bibliothèque Forney Ville de Paris
Advertising poster for Gitanes Vizir cigarettes, 1939. Photograph by Laure Albin-Guillot. | src Galerie 123

Thimig by Fleischmann · 1929

Trude Fleischmann (1895–1990) ~ Helene Thimig in riding outfit, Vienna, 1929. Vintage silver print, sepia-toned, on postcard paper | src Ostlicht
Trude Fleischmann (1895–1990) ~ Helene Thimig in riding outfit, Vienna, 1929. Vintage silver print, sepia-toned, on postcard paper

Actresses portraits by Manassé

Atelier Manassé (1922–1938) ~ Actress and Charleston dancer Bee Jackson, Vienna, ca. 1930 | src Ostlicht

Bee Jackson (1903–1933) was best known for dancing the Charleston, performed on Broadway, in the Ziegfeld Follies and in London, Vienna, and Paris. Tragically she died following an appendicitis operation at the age of 30.

Atelier Manassé (1922–1938) ~ Actress Thyra Winge, ca. 1925 | src Ostlicht

Studio’s signature “Manassé” in both negatives, “Foto-Salon ‘Manassé'” copyright stamp in red ink, “Wiener Foto-Kurier” agency stamp on the reverse.

Klimt and Flöge sisters in 1906

Anonymous. Gustav Klimt, Emilie und Helene Flöge, Litzlberg at Attersee, Austria, 1906 | src Ostlicht

Emilie Flöge spent many summers with Gustav Klimt at Lake Attersee from the 1890s on. Her sisters Pauline and Helene, with whom she opened the “Schwestern Flöge” fashion salon at Mariahilfer Strasse 1b in 1904, were often also part of the party. The salon, designed by Josef Hoffmann as a “Gesamtkunstwerk”, employed up to 80 seamstresses at the time of its greatest success and catered to the upper bourgeoisie. Helene Flöge was married to Ernst Klimt, the younger brother of Gustav Klimt, with whom he worked in a studio partnership.

This private photograph is captivating because of the contrast between the different silhouettes of the three figures, which reveals the emancipatory radicalism of the reform dress – in contrast to the usual dresses worn over a corset. Implicitly, as one might say, this also “quotes” the design element of repeated curved lines, as found in many of Gustav Klimt’s compositions. This is the only known print of this photograph [Negative number “4/93 IV” in the upper margin, handwritten annotated “Gustav Klimt Emilie Helene” in ink on the reverse.] | src Ostlicht

Pfundmayr by Dora Kallmus

Madame d’Ora (1881–1963) ~ Hedy Pfundmayr in ‘Tanz der Salome’ (Richard Strauss), Vienna, ca. 1924 | src Ostlicht

On verso: “Wiener Foto-Kurier” agency stamp, label with text: “Hedy Pfundmayer (sic), Primaballerina de l’opera a Vienne comme ‘Salome'”. Also, several annotations in pencil on the reverse, as: “Berhümte Solo Tänzerin […] die Tänzerin Pfundmaier (sic)”.

Masahisa Fukase · Sasuke

Masahisa Fukase ~ From Sasuke, ca. 1977. Atelier EXB (2021) | src Juxtapoz magazine
Masahisa Fukase ~ From Sasuke, ca. 1977. Atelier EXB (2021) | src Juxtapoz magazine
Masahisa Fukase ~ From Sasuke, ca. 1977. Atelier EXB (2021) | src Juxtapoz magazine
Masahisa Fukase ~ From Sasuke, ca. 1977. Atelier EXB (2021) | src Juxtapoz magazine
Masahisa Fukase ~ From Sasuke, ca. 1977. Atelier EXB (2021) | src Juxtapoz magazine
Masahisa Fukase ~ From Sasuke, ca. 1977. Atelier EXB (2021) | src Juxtapoz magazine
Book cover from Sasuke. Atelier EXB (2021) | src Juxtapoz magazine

In 1977, Fukase turned his lenses on his new companion Sasuke. Growing up with felines, he decides with the arrival of this new cat in his life that it would become a photographic subject in his own right, fascinated by this creature full of life named after a legendary ninja. Sasuke disappears after ten days and the photographer sticks hundreds of small posters in his neighborhood.

A person brings back his cat, yet it is not Sasuke but never mind he welcomes this new cat with as much affection. One year later, he takes a second cat named Momoe, entering the frame as well and he will never get tired of photographing their games. They become for the Japanese photographer a boundless experimental field leading to an extraordinary body of work in its technical and visual inventiveness.

As often in his work, this series shows a form of projection of the photographer into his subject. The cat, a faithful companion who never leaves him, takes the place of his wife, eternal heartache, later represented by the iconic fleeing crows.

A new book, Sasuke, is dedicated to Masahisa Fukase’s emblematic series on his two cats: Sasuke and Momoe, combining unpublished and iconic images. | Juxtapoz magazine

Wilkins selfportrait as a woman

Tom Wilkins ~ Untitled (selfportrait), 27.03.1981. Polaroid with legend. | src Paris Photo 2023

Courtesy Christian Berst Art Brut : Qui est Tom Wilkins ? C’est la question à laquelle Sébastien Girard essaie de répondre depuis 2011, date à laquelle il fait l’acquisition de 900 Polaroïds énigmatiques, édités en 2017 sous le nom My TV Girls. Cette série de captations télévisuelles légendées par son auteur met en scène des femmes et se termine par le seul et unique autoportrait de la série où Tom Wilkins, se représente en femme. | src ODLP ~ l’œil de la photographie

Lillebil Ibsen by Bassano

Bassano Ltd. ~ Lillebil Ibsen (née Sofie Parelius Krohn), 22 Sept 1920. Glass negative. | src NPG London
Bassano Ltd. ~ Lillebil Ibsen (née Sofie Parelius Krohn), 22 Sept 1920. Glass negative. | src NPG London

The Norwegian actress Sofie Parelius Krohn began her career as a dancer in 1911 at the Norwegian National Theatre. She trained with her mother, who was a choreographer and ballet teacher, and for a time with Michel Fokine. She took leading roles in Max Reinhardt’s productions in Berlin, including Prima Ballerina and Sumurun. Married to Tancred Ibsen, film director and screenwriter and grandson of Henrik Ibsen, she later became one of Norway’s most distinguished stage actresses, appearing in many works by Shaw, Wilde, Shakespeare and Ibsen.

Bassano Ltd. ~ Lillebil Ibsen (née Sofie Parelius Krohn), 22 Sept 1920. Glass negative. | src NPG London
Bassano Ltd. ~ Lillebil Ibsen (née Sofie Parelius Krohn), 22 Sept 1920. Glass negative. | src NPG London
Bassano Ltd. ~ Lillebil Ibsen (née Sofie Parelius Krohn), 22 Sept 1920. Bromide print. | src NPG London

Gunhild Englund portraits

Pictorialist portrait of Fritz Englund’s daughter ─ Gunhild Englund ─ with a kitten, 1902 | src The Finnish Museum of Photography
Fritz Englund (1870–1950) ~ Gunhild, 1903. Suomen valokuvataiteen museon kokoelma. Scan from Piktorialismi, published by the Finnish Museum of Photography & Parus (Front cover & page 78)

The dance of The Jungle Book

The dancer Ziuta Buczyńska in the dance The Jungle Book. Situational photograph taken in an atelier, 1937 | src National Archives of Poland
The dancer Ziuta Buczyńska in the dance The Jungle Book. Situational photograph taken in an atelier, 1937 | src Narodowe Archiwum Cyfrowe
The dancer Ziuta Buczyńska in the dance The Jungle Book. Situational photograph taken in an atelier, 1937 | src Polish National Archives