postcard of a woman reading 1915

Woman reading, Rome, Georgia, circa 1915 (tinted real photo postcard) (detail) | src flickr
Woman reading, Rome, Georgia, circa 1915 (tinted real photo postcard) | src flickr

Josefina Oliver · cross-dressing

Oliver family. Carnival at chacra Santa Ana. Pepe Salas with Josefina’s bathing suit, San Vicente, Buenos Aires, Argentina, February 1910. Photograph hand colored by Josefina Oliver | src YO Josefina Oliver
Siblings García Oliver, San Vicente, Buenos Aires, Argentina, 1909. Photograph hand colored by Josefina Oliver | src Josefina Oliver
Carnival. Pepe Salas with Josefina’s bathing suit, San Vicente, Buenos Aires, Argentina, February 1910 [Detail]
Josefina Oliver and Pepe Salas cross dressed with niece, San Vicente, March 1908. Hand colored photograph by Josefina Oliver | src YO Josefina Oliver

‘(…) Sunday 8th- Very nice day. Carnival’s burial. (…) Pepe went hunting and I dressed up as a man having a succès d’estime. Pepe came a little later and I decked him out with a dress of mine, Porota wore her paper suit and after dressing up granddaddy ridiculously, we devoted ourselves to perpetuate the memory of our joke through photography. As the audience, all the people from the kitchen, Luis, his wife, his children and even the workman celebrating the scene (…)’. Diary 4, p. 257 and 258, March 1908

Postcard sent by Josefina to her sister Catalina, with her cross-dressed self-portrait, saying that it is a friend of Pepe, her husband.
Nephews García Oliver cross-dressed, San Vicente, February 1910. Photograph hand colored by Josefina Oliver | src Josefina Oliver
«Con los trajes trocados la Nena y Pedrito», San Vicente, February 1910
Hand colored photograph by Josefina Oliver | src YO Josefina Oliver

Josefina Oliver (1875-1956) began as a vocational photographer among her friends in 1897. Two years later, she takes the first one of her one hundred self-portraits and photographs her friends and relatives, houses’ interiors and landscapes in the family farm in San Vicente. Josefina, a common porteña, was almost invisible. Author of a luminous ouvre, hidden until 2006, as a consequence of a society that disregarded women’s inner self.

Josefina Oliver reflects this reality in her artistic work so far composed by 20 volumes of a personal diary, more than 2700 photographs, collages and postcards. Plenty of her shots are conceived with scenographies; she always develops them and paints the best copies with bright colors. She makes up twelve albums, four of them are wonderful and only have illuminated photographs. At the same time, a transversal humor appears behind her multiform ouvre.

quoted from Josefina Oliver

Surrealism and ecstasy (1933)

Le phénomène de l’extase, photomontage de Dalí, Brassaï, Breton et Éluard (1933); publié dans Minotaure, n° 3-4, décembre 1933

The Phenomenon of Ecstasy, is a photomontage built in a spiral: it is made up of 32 photos organized in a labyrinth of photos which wind up, drawing the eye in a hypnotic way towards the central photo, a portrait of a woman by Brassaï. This photo was part of a series of «femmes en jouissance onirique» (women in dreamlike enjoyment), taken in 1932.

Dalí saw in the convolutions of Art Nouveau a form of madness or intoxication. Brassaï’s portrait of the “overthrown” woman fit perfectly with his point. It therefore logically lands at the heart of a system which functions like a puzzle.

The historian Michel Poivert in his analysis of «Le phénomène de l’extase» ou le portrait du surréalisme même (1997) first lists the elements that make up the image: “most of them show a woman’s face that the title invites us to consider in ecstasy. In addition to these female faces, there are three male heads, four sculptures, two objects (a chair, a pin) as well as sixteen ears. These ear photos were taken by Alphonse Bertillon who was a criminologist. More precisely, he was the creator of judicial anthropometry: in 1882 he founded the first criminal identification laboratory in France.

Michel Poivert explains: “The iconography of criminal anthropology makes an incursion here at the very moment when the group seeks to define a revolutionary identity.” The surrealists were very interested in the grammar of repression. Dalí, in particular, was passionate about the journal La Nature, a popular science journal which published at least three articles by Bertillon, illustrated with forensic photographs. The photographic fragments used by Dalí are in fact extracted from synoptic tables or tabbed directories by Bertillon. Bertillon’s ambition was to draw up an atlas of human morphology. What modern police was developing is therefore the transformation of the human body into a territory of surveillance and control. Bertillon reduces the body to a set of records.

Michel Poivert underlines that the repetition of the motif of the ear acts in the manner of a «stéréotypie», that is to say of a gesture reproduced in a loop or of a word reiterated without end: the symptom of a mental disorder. What’s closer to ecstasy than a morbid or hysterical fixation? From this point of view, certainly, the judicial photos of ears have their place perfectly in this photomontage, “which precisely mixes devotion and the disciplinary in the pathological figure of ecstasy,” suggests Michel Poivert: Dali’s passion for hysteria inevitably guides us towards Jean-Martin Charcot. Indeed, at the time when Dalí was concerned about a representation of ecstasy, the definition of the phenomenon by theologians was entirely constructed in reaction against the popularization of hysterical ecstasy.

Brassaï ~ The Phenomenon of Ecstasy; from the series «femmes en jouissance onirique» (women in dreamlike enjoyment) (1932)

In the text entitled “The Phenomenon of Ecstasy” (published in Le Minotaure, 1933), Dalí himself explains in covert terms the reason for this choice: the ears are “always in ecstasy” he says, probably in allusion to their coiled shape. The ears are shaped like a fractal or vortex. They lead the eye through a whirlwind to their central point, the black orifice of the ear canal… But the photomontage is itself constructed in the manner of an ear, guiding the eye to the portrait of the woman in ecstasy.

Brassaï (1899-1984) ~ Le phénomène de l’extase, vers 1933 | src liveauctioneers

The Phenomenon of Ecstasy shows a woman at the heart of the photomontage; she offers the ambiguous spectacle of a being carried away by an emotion of mixed suffering and joy; between the devotional universe of grace and the clinical one of madness. What passion is she devoted to? Terrestrial or celestial?

Dalé expressed it in these terms: “During ecstasy, at the approach of desire, pleasure, anxiety, all opinions, all judgments (moral, aesthetic, etc.) change dramatically. Every image, likewise, changes sensationally. One would believe that through ecstasy we have access to a world as far from reality as that of dreams. The repugnant can be transformed into desirable, affection into cruelty, the ugly into beauty, defects into qualities, qualities into black misery. (The Phenomenon of Ecstasy, 1933).

sources of the text: Libération & open edition journals

Brassaï (1899-1984) ~ Le phénomène de l’extase, vers 1933 | src RMN

Anaïs Nin through the years

Anaïs Nin (1903-1977) in the snow wearing wool cap, 1911 | src The Anais Nin Trust
Anaïs Nin (1903-1977) in white dress (studio photograph with studio stamp), Barcelona 1910 | src The Anais Nin Trust
Anaïs Nin (1903-1977) wearing a jacket and a beret, 1915 | src The Anais Nin Trust
Anaïs Nin (1903-1977) sitting at a desk, writing, 1914 | src The Anais Nin Trust
Anaïs and her two brothers, Thorvald and Joaquín Nin, 1913 | src The Anais Nin Trust
Anaïs Nin (1903-1977) sitting on bench wearing hat, 1919 | src The Anais Nin Trust
Anaïs Nin (1903-1977) wearing hat adorned with flowers, studio portrait, ca. 1920 | src The Anais Nin Trust

Dalí · Dream of Venus · 1939

Horst P. Horst (1906–1999) ~ Costume design by Salvador Dali for ‘Dream of Venus’, 1939 | src Christie’s
Horst P. Horst (1906–1999) ~ Costume design by Salvador Dalí for ‘Dream of Venus’ (Lobster # 1), 1939 | src Christie’s

In June 1939 Salvador Dalí designed a pavilion for the New York World’s Fair built by the architect Ian Woodner. The building was named Dream of Venus. 

The pavilion featured a spectacular facade full of protuberances, vaguely reminiscent of the Pedrera building by Antoni Gaudí. The main door was flanked by two pillars representing two female legs wearing stockings and high-heeled shoes. Through the openings of  the irregular façade, visitors could see reproductions of the Saint John the Baptist by Leonardo da Vinci and The Birth of Venus by Botticelli. The outer part of the building also had crutches, cacti, hedgehogs, etc. Inside, the pavilion offered visitors an aquatic dance show in two large swimming pools, with sirens and other items also designed by Dalí, some of them taking their inspiration from the work of Bracelli. Between the painter’s initial ideas and the final result of the project there arose major modifications, which led Dalí to complain about the Fair’s requirements  in a pamphlet entitled Declaration of the Independence of the Imagination and the Rights of Man to His Own Madness. […] [quoted from dali.org]

Salvador Dalí (1904 – 1989) ~ Declaration of the Independence of the Imagination and the Rights of Man to His Own Madness, 1939, ink on paper | src National Art Library; also AIC

Salvador Dalí wrote this declaration after his experience creating a pavilion for the 1939 New York World’s fair. The ‘Dream of Venus’ pavilion was a Surrealist undersea grotto where semi naked women performed in tanks playing piano and milking cows amongst other suitably surreal activities. The image on this pamphlet of Botticelli’s Venus with the head of a fish was Dalí’s original idea for the Pavilion’s entrance. However, the design was rejected by the Fair’s organizers who stated “‘A woman with the head of a fish is impossible” and replaced it with a simple reproduction of Venus. Believing that his artistic vision had been unacceptably compromised, Dalí responded by producing this pamphlet berating the Fair’s organizers and rallying against mediocrity in art by consensus. [quoted from V&A museum]

Julien Levy ~ Facade of the pavilion “Dream of Venus” conceived by Salvador Dalí for the New York World Fair (1939) | src AIC

[…] Despite the conflicts that derived from Dalí’s collaboration with the organizers of the Fair, his participation has to be rated as a highly important moment within the painter’s increasing approximation to mass culture, and his need to project his ideas beyond the strict circles of artistic culture. In this sense it may not be exaggerated to state that The Dream of Venus was a first version (though with features and a context of its own) of that other enormous “inhabitable” and “visitable” artistic object that was to be the Dalí Theatre-Museum of Figueres many years later. [quoted from dali.org]

Gala and Dalí in the ticket booth of the pavilion “Dream of Venus” by Salvador Dalí for the New York World Fair (1939)
Entrance of the pavilion “Dream of Venus” conceived by Salvador Dalí for the New York World Fair (1939)

Brassaï · Nu de dos

Brassaï (1899-1984) ~ Untitled, ca. 1930; ferrotyped gelatin silver print | src Christie’s
Brassaï (1899-1984) ~ Studio di nudo (undated on source); photogravure | src eBay

Baker by Hoyningen-Huene

George Hoyningen-Huene ~ Josephine Baker for Vogue Studio, 10 November 1927 | src Yale university library
George Hoyningen-Huene ~ Josephine Baker [in a wig by Antoine de Paris] for Vogue Studio, 10th November 1927 [detail]
George Hoyningen-Huene ~ Josephine Baker for Vogue Studio, November 1927 (full size) | src Yale university library
George Hoyningen-Huene ~ Josephine Baker for Vogue Studio, November 1927 | src Yale university library